Fashion, Society, and the First World War

This book can be read through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched.The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world.With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation.Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

Lists of FiguresList of ContributorsAcknowledgements, Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie KurkdjianNotes on TranslationTimelineIntroduction, Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie KurkdjianI. The Reconfiguration of the International Couture Industry1: Wartime Marketing of Parisian Haute Couture in the United States, 1914-1917Mary Lynn Stewart2: Boué Sours, "Compelled by the War"Waleria Dorogova3: "Gladdening the hearts of warriors:" the relationship between Lucile's romantic fashions and morale in World War IGeorgina Ripley4: Die Kriegskrinoline - A Feminine Fashion Between Past and FutureBirgit Haase5: Fashion in Belgium during the Great War and the Case of NorineNele BernheimII. The Materiality of Wartime Fashion and Textile Industries6: Dressed to Quill: The Origin and Significance of the Feathered Showgirl in World War I ParisEmily Brayshaw7: Between Fashion and Folk: Dress Practices in Alsace during World War ISara Hume8: The Lace Industry in Belgium and France During the WarMarguerite Coppens9: Industrial and Handmade Clothing Production in the Netherlands, a Neutral Country during First World WarMarta Kargól10: Wartime Fabrics in the Historical Archives of Como Weavers and in the Collections of the Fondazione Antonio RattiMargherita RosinaIII. Problematic Uniforms: Male and Female Experiences and Second-Hand Trade Networks11: "Breeched, Booted, and Cropped:" a dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain's Women's Land Army, 1917-1919Amy de la Haye12: The French Home Front in 1914-1918: An Investigation of Female WorkwearJérémie Brucker13: Rushing to Suit Up: French Aviation's Adjustment to Wartime Uniforms, 1914-1916Guillaume de Syon14: The Spoils of War: Use and Transformations of Second-Hand Uniforms during theFirst World War in FranceManuel CharpyIV. Fashion in Print: Questions of National Fashion and Gender15: The Gentleman Turned "Enemy:" Men's Fashion in the Hungarian Press, 1914-1918Zsolt Mészáros16: The Politics of Fashion: German Fashion (Writings) in Times of WarBurcu Dogramaci17: The Italian Fashion Magazine Margherita: the War, Women, and the Call for a "Moda Italiana," 1914-1918Enrica Morini18: Le Flambeau's Fashion Discourse during the First World War: Towards a Retrograde Femininity?Nigel Lezama19: Is Beauty Useless? Fashion, Gender, and British Wartime Society in Punch Magazine, 1915Andréa KollnitzIndex